Monday 22 October 2012

NYC: Momofuku Ssäm Bar

Opened in 2006Momofuku Ssäm Bar is one of the six David Chang’s creations in NYC. As a walk-in restaurant (except for the rotisserie duck & bo ssäm meal reservation), you have to be there early enough in order to score a seat. We arrived there just before 6pm on Saturday and were offered a seat at the bar straightaway; the moment we sat down, people started to queue up.
  
於2006年開業的 Momofuku Ssäm Bar為David Chang 在紐約主理的六間餐廳之一。因為不設訂座 (除了特別的烤鴨或豬肩肉餐外),所比必須預早到達來避䦕人潮。我們在星期六黃昏六時前到達,立即便有吧枱的座位; 不消一刻,人們便開始排隊。




Royal Miyagi Oysters - Kombu mignonette 
US$16 (1/2 dozen)
Royal Miyagi(品種)生蠔 - 昆布醋汁 美元$16 (半打)

Santa Barbara Uni - heirloom tomato,
cantaloupe, shiso US$18

Santa Barbara產海膽 -傳家寶番茄,哈蜜瓜,紫蘇 美元$18

Honeycrisp Apple Kimchi - 
maple labne,jowl bacon, arugula 
US$13
蘋果泡菜 - 楓蜜乳酪,煙肉,芝麻菜 美元$13

Steamed Buns - Pork Belly, 
hoisin, cucumbers, scallions US$10
夾包 - 豬腩肉, 海鮮醬,青瓜,䓤 美元$10

Blackened Bluefish Sandwich -
kale, miso US$13

香料烤藍魚 - 海帶, 味噌 美元$13




Drinks were served quickly and food came at a reasonable pace. The dimly-lighted interior and strong music (apparently the playlist was specially choosen for the Ssäm Bar by David Chang and he has made sure that there’s enough songs so the same song wouldn’t be heard twice in a meal!) gave a sense of mystery which matched quite well with the innovative food. Ssäm Bar is not so much a place for chatting yet a very good place to go with a small group of friends for a gourmet adventure! 
飲料在落單後很快便到達,食物則以合理的速度一碟接一碟上枱。室內微弱的光線昏暗和強勁的音樂(據說那播放清單的歌是David Chang專門為 Ssäm Bar而選的,而他亦特意選了足夠的歌曲來確保食客不會在一頓飯中聽到相同的歌!)營造了一種神秘感,跟那些充滿創意的料理相當配合。跟三五知己走進Ssäm Bar就像一起展開一次美食的歷奇,不要想著能好好聊天!


Momofuku Ssäm Bar on Urbanspoon

Monday 13 August 2012

Recipe: Truffle Omurice


What can you do with 100g black truffle?

100克的黑松露能用來做什麼?


With the truffle bought in Canberra Fyshwick Market after the truffle hunt and another truffle bought from Tamar Valley Tasmania, I have managed to create quite a number of dishes from a total of 100g of Truffle.  Pan fried scallops with truffles, twice; Steak with black truffle vinaigrette, once; truffled scramble eggs, four times; risotto with creamy leeks, dried porcini and truffles, once; Neil Perry’s recipe of soft poached egg on truffle toast with truffle sauce, once; different versions of truffle pasta, four times in total; Pierre Hermé’s recipe of black truffle sponge cake, once; truffle for infusing ‘Saint’ cheese from Bruny Island Cheese Co., once; Chinese style congee with truffle, once; truffle sushi, once ; truffle omurice (fried rice wrapped in an omelette), once. So I think it’s pretty good value to have truffle dishes at home rather than paying a fortune for a few thin slices in restaurants.

用松露捜尋活動後在坎培拉Fyshwick市場買的一顆松露和另一顆來自塔斯馬尼亞的Tamar Valley的松露,這共100克的松露其實能做出頗多的菜餚。香煎松露帶子,兩次;牛柳配松露油醋汁,一次;松露炒蛋,四次;松露牛肝菌韭蔥燴飯,一次;澳洲大廚Neil Perry的松露水波蛋吐司配松露醬,一次;各款松露意粉,共四次;法國甜點大師Pierre Hermé的黑松露蛋糕,一次;用作夾於Bruny Island Cheese Co.‘Saint’軟芝士中間松露,一次;中式粥配松露,一次;松露壽司,一次;松露蛋包飯,一次。所以其實在家中做松露料理,比起在餐館中用頗高的價格換來數片薄薄的松露來得化算。

And my favourite truffle dish out of all these turned out to be…..the truffle omurice! Perhaps I am a bit biased since this was my own recipe and I was proud of it lol. Talking about the inspiration for this dish, I was watching the Korean dram ‘Rooftop Prince’ again with mum and when I saw them having omurice, I thought to myself ‘hey, eggs and truffle get along so well, why don’t I make a truffle omurice?’

而這當中我最喜歡的松露菜式,就是.....松露蛋包飯!我承認我是有點偏心,因為這是我頗自豪的自創食譜 (哈哈太不要臉了吧....)。話說這蛋包飯的靈感出現在我陪媽媽重看韓劇〈屋塔房王世子〉時,看到他們的蛋包飯,我想‘既然蛋和松露那麼配,為什麼不試試做松露蛋包飯?’

The inspiring scene in ‘Rooftop Prince’!
松露蛋包飯的靈感就是來自〈屋塔房王世子〉中的這一幕!

And here comes my truffle omurice!

松露蛋包飯出場!




With the extra fried rice which could not be wrapped into the omelette, I have made some sushi!

還有用多出的炒飯做的壽司!




Truffle Omurice (2 servings)
Prepared ahead-
Truffled Egg: Store eggs in an airtight glass container with the truffle and kept in the fridge for at least 24 hrs
Truffled Rice: Store eggs in an airtight glass container with the truffle and kept in the fridge for at least 24 hrs
Truffled butter: Gently melt 250g unsalted butter over a pot of simmering water; remove melted butter from heat and add 15 g finely grated black truffle and salt to flavour. Mix well and keep stirring as it cools. Set in the fridge. Use immediately or wrap well to store in the freezer.

Fried rice
Truffled Rice     1.5 Cup
Fresh scallops (chopped)    6-8 pieces
Asparagus (chopped)     4 sticks
Flying fish roe   1.5 Tbs

Truffle Sauce
Pouring cream   2 Tbs
Truffled butter   1 Tbs
Egg Yolk 1

Omelette
Truffled Eggs (whisked)    4

  1. Cook rice in an electrical rice cooker
  2. Make truffle sauce: heat butter and cream in a small pan on medium heat until butter is melted; slowly stir the egg yolk in; season with salt and pepper; reheat before use
  3. When the rice is ready, coat a pan with olive oil
  4. Add cooked rice, asparagus to  the pan and fry for a while before adding the scallops to keep the scallops just done; then add in flying fish roe and turn off the heat; stir to mix well and set aside for later use
  5. Use half of the whisked eggs for 1 egg sheet: coat a hot pan with olive oil and pour the whisked egg in and cook on high heat
  6. When the egg sheet is almost set, scoop some rice on and fold in half
  7. Transfer the omelette onto a plate and pour some truffle sauce on; serve with extra truffle shaves
  8. Enjoy your truffle omurice!


    松露蛋包飯(2人份)
     提前準備 -
     松露蛋:把雞蛋與松露放在密封的玻璃容器內在冰箱中保存至少24小時
     松露米:把米和松露放在密封的玻璃容器內在冰箱中保存至少24小時
     松露牛油:隔水融化250克的牛油,離火後加入15克碎黑松露和適量的鹽來調味。拌勻,並在冷卻期間不斷攪拌。立即使用或包裝好存放在冰箱內。

     炒飯
     松露米1.5
     新鮮帶子(切碎)6-8粒
     鮮蘆筍(切碎)4棵
     飛魚籽1.5湯匙

     松露醬
     鮮奶油2湯匙
     松露奶油1湯匙
     蛋黃1

     煎蛋皮
     松露蛋(已打發)

1. 先用電飯煲把米飯煮熟
2. 松露醬:在小鍋內加熱牛油和鮮奶油直到牛油融化;離火後慢慢拌入蛋黃,加入鹽和黑胡椒調味;使用前翻熱
3. 米飯煮熟後,在鍋中倒入適量煮食用橄欖油
4. 先加入飯和鮮蘆筍炒一會兒,再加入帶子快炒至帶子剛熟;加入飛魚籽後關火,拌勻備用
5. 用一半已打發的雞蛋做一塊蛋皮:用煮食用橄欖油熱鍋,倒入蛋液大火加熱
6. 蛋液差不多凝固時,放上適量炒飯後折疊一半
7. 把蛋包飯放到盤子上,淋上松露醬;再加上黑松露薄片
8. 盡情享受你的松露蛋包飯吧!


Saturday 11 August 2012

Taipei (2007)


Endlessly rotating in this tiny space
How meaningless it is for the grown-ups
But the young and innocent like you 
Enjoy it wholeheartedly
Without caring about the rest of the world
But after all
The rotation will come to an end
No matter what 
You will have to step onto the cement road
And walk into the big big world
Going further and further away
Will you still remember the simple joy from the spin 
once upon the time



在這狹小的空間內
不斷旋轉
對那些成年人來說
一點意義也沒有吧
但年幼的你還是樂在其中
懶理其他的事情
手舞足蹈的享受着
可是旋轉終歸會終止
無論如何你也要踏到那水泥路上
走進那更闊更廣的世界
越走越遠
那時你還會記得迴旋時那簡單的快樂嗎


Thursday 9 August 2012

Gundaroo: Grazing

Located in the 1865-built Royal Hotel, Grazing was a real surprise to be found at Gundaroo which is about 30 minutes drive from Canberra. The restaurant was very popular and we only managed to get a table secured for us at 2pm on Saturday. Stepping into the restaurant was like back in time into one of those outback movies, which the cowboys spent their time in the local pub. And the place was kept warm with fireplaces which also reminded us the good old days when everything was natural and simple.


在距離坎培拉約30分鐘車程的Gundaroo小鎮內竟有Grazing這樣的餐廳實在是一個驚喜。餐廳很受歡迎,我們只能預留到週六下午2點的位子。Grazing座落在1865年落成的皇家酒店內,甫踏進餐廳,時光就像倒流到從前的西部牛仔電影中的小鎮酒吧。店內靠壁爐的熊熊烈火來保持温暖,並提醒着我們昔日的好時光,當一切還是自然和簡單的那些年。



The fireplace: everyone helped to sustain 
the fire by throwing paper/ serviette in!
壁爐:大家都為維持那團火而出一分力
—往火堆扔廢紙/餐巾紙!

Truffle Special: Steamed crab & duck egg 
with truffled celeriac remoulade & 
brioche toast soldiers    AUD$ 12.5
松露節期間限定:蟹肉蒸鴨蛋,松露芹菜頭沙律
配烘烤法式奶油麵   澳元$ 12.5

Trout: Smoked Tumut rainbow trout terrine with 
cucumber salad, fresh horsereadish 
coriander seed pastry tuile    AUD$17
鱒魚:煙熏Tumut產彩虹鱒魚凍,黃瓜沙律,
新鮮配香菜子    澳元$17

Mackerel: Olive oil poached Mackerel with 
confit potato, caramelised onion, 
raisins & prociutto crumbs    AUD$17
鯖魚:橄欖油浸鯖魚與油焗馬鈴薯,焦糖洋蔥,
葡萄乾及風亁火腿粒    澳元$17

Duck: Braised shank & slow cooked breast 
of duck with sourdough dumpling,
 white bean puree, cauliflower & 
braising jus.  AUD$33
鴨:紅燒鴨腿與鴨胸,酸種麵團,白豆泥,
椰菜花配肉汁   澳元$33

Beef: Grass fed beef fillet, char-grilled 
and served with petit mixed mushrooms 
tarlet, green peppercorn & chicken 
liver parfait, buttered greens 
veal essence    AUD$33
牛肉:炭烤草飼牛柳,雜菌撻,青胡椒雞肝凍,
奶油蔬菜及牛肉濃汁    澳元$33

Truffle Special: Grazing dessert assiette 
of walnut crème cigar, goat’s milk 
and rhubarb panna cotta, chocolate fudge 
terrine & truffle ice-cream    AUD$20
松露節期間限定:Grazing甜品拼盆—核桃奶油雪茄,
羊奶大黃奶凍,巧克力軟糖糕及松露冰淇淋    澳元$20

Rhubarb: Poached rhurbarb and lemon balm 
scroll with goats milk panna cotta 
and pistachio crumbs    AUD$16
大黃:浸大黃檸檬醬卷蛋,
羊奶奶凍配開心果碎    澳元$16

The quiet and peaceful neighhood at Gundaroo
寧靜和平的Gundaroo小鎮



With a restaurant like Grazing in a small town outside the metropolitan area, Australia is really growing big in gastronomy. Freshness of ingredients in such restaurants is almost guaranteed as an advantage of the geometrical location, being close to the production line. Additional effort to enhance the flavour and complexity of a dish, explore new combination of ingredients and work on the presentation would bring the restaurant to another level. Grazing overall delivered good food and good atmosphere for a weekend chill-out place with the family to chat about family history and old memory in this antique building.

在大都會以外的小城鎮有着像Grazing這樣的餐廳,可見澳洲對美食的熱情不斷上揚。在地理位置的優勢下,這些鄰近生產線的餐廳用料幾乎保證新鮮。能夠多花心思去提高一盤菜的味道和複雜性、探索新的食材配撘、用心擺盆的話大抵就能把餐廳帶到另一個層次。整體來說,Grazing的食物和氣氛都很好,適合在週末與家人聚在一起,在這古老的建築內,一邊享受美食,一邊閒聊家族歷史和回憶舊事。



Grazing on Urbanspoon

Sunday 5 August 2012

Canberra: Dream Cuisine Patisserie

I have seen the newly created truffle macaron from Dream Cuisine Patisserie for the truffle season on their Facebook page. So after the truffle hunt, we went there in hope to try some truffle macarons out. Unfortunately, we were told that as the truffle season progressed, the aroma of the truffle did not get along well with desserts but more for savoury; so they have stopped making truffle macarons this year. Need to go there earlier next year in order to try them out! However, other macarons offered by Dream Cuisine Patisserie were also worth a try!

我在Dream Cuisine Patisserie的臉書上看到他們在這松露季節新創造的松露馬卡龍;所以在松露搜尋活動後,我們便去了那裏希望嘗試一下這些松露馬卡龍。可惜,松露的香氣隨着松露季節的展開而有所轉變,現在的松露比起甜食跟咸點更匹配,所以他們停止了製作松露馬卡龍。要試的話,明年請早!然而,Dream Cuisine Patisserie的其他馬卡龍也是很值得嘗試的!





We have tried 6 flavours on the day; and my personal ranking would be: Walnut & Whisky> Habanero Chilli Chocolate> Pistachio & Lime> Lavender & Honey> Strawberry & Champagne> Salted Caramel.

Walnut & Whisky: They called it the ‘blokes’ macaron but it certainly did not deserve to have such a nickname (lol). The flavour was so well-balanced between the nuttiness of the walnut and the whisky, I wished I have bought more!

Habanero Chilli Chocolate: The Habanero Chilli gave the macaron a subtle spiciness which enhanced the flavour of the chocolate.

Pistachio and lime: The 2 flavours were unexpectedly matched and the presence of lime actually made the whole macaron more refreshing and not as heavy.

Lavender & Honey: The strength of the lavender was just right so that it would not make it like eating hand cream yet enough to make you feel indulged.

Strawberry & Champagne: This was a bit on the sweet side for me; the strawberry flavour was strong but the champagne could hardly be tasted (I have never been able to taste champagne in any ‘champagne’ macaron so it seems to be a common issue…)

Salted Caramel: This was too sweet for me and the taste was not sharp enough. I think Baroque/ La Renaissance Cafe and Patisserie in Sydney still do a better salted caramel macaron.

我們當天經嘗試了6款馬卡龍;我個人的排名如下:核桃威士忌>哈巴內羅辣椒巧克力>開心果青檸>薰衣草蜂蜜>草莓香檳>海鹽焦糖。

核桃威士忌:他們叫它做“寡佬”馬卡龍,但味道卻與這個綽號完全不配(笑)。核桃的堅果香氣和威士忌平衡得非常好,令人再三回味。

哈巴內羅辣椒巧克力:哈巴內羅辣椒的微微辣味把巧克力的味道帶得更出,是刺激味覺的組合。

開心果青檸:2種口味意外地匹配;而青檸的存在令整個馬卡龍更清新,沒那麼膩。

薰衣草蜂蜜:薰衣草的香味恰到好處,令人陶醉其中但不會像吃護手霜般。

草莓香檳:這一款偏甜,而且只吃到草莓味並沒有香檳的味道(這似乎是一個普遍的問題,因為我從來沒能在任何“香檳”馬卡龍中嚐到香檳味...)。

海鹽焦糖:這對我來說太甜了,而且味道不是很分明。海鹽焦糖馬卡龍的話似乎仍是悉尼的Baroque/ La Renaissance Cafe and Patisserie做得更好。